Trekking down the slippery rocks of the valley at 200 feet, Shivansamudram waterfalls in Karnataka has much to offer for nature lovers. The shimmering beauty of cascade falls at sunrise or noon is always a thing to rejoice says the Travel writer Selvaraj Chandrasekar who visited recently.
Under diffused sunlight, the weather was cloudy with cool breeze brushing our ears. Walking on the naturally formed fine sand dunes at Talakadu gave an unforgettable soothing massage to feet and toes. After the panchalinga darshan at Talakadu, our gluts demanded a heavy lunch before heading for Shivansamudram waterfalls (aka Bluff aka Simsha) in Mandya district. It is ideal to visit during the monsoon but we wouldn’t be able to go down to enjoy the beauty of valley when half of it would be submerged beneath the swirling waters. Much of water would be discharged from Kabini and Krishnarajasagar reservoirs.
It appeared like a green canvass dotted on rocky hills with carefully painted giant falls. The milky water splashing from a height of 200 feet with roaring sound is a thing to be enjoyed and rejoiced by our souls in ecstasy. Here was Asia’s first hydro electric project that commenced operations to supply power to Kolar Gold fields. Surprisingly the hilly area remains unpolluted from the vagaries of modernization. ‘The place remains as it is when I came here on school excursion in 1959 but not sure if that winch facility exists now’ said my mom. The twin falls, Bharachukki and Gaganchukki exhibited the roughness of the wild show and envying visual beauty as well for shutterbugs. Outside the dargah, Hazrath Mardane Gaib, the view of the falls is beautiful and breathtaking. My mom was busy surveying the developments.
Over a period of fifty years, many eateries at cliff have sprouted to sell churmuri, madur vada and bisi chai. A chance to hear all languages every few minutes of trekking down and climbing up gave a feel of the national integration at one place. Erivarradhu kashtama irukku, neelu entha andham kaadhu, mole thazha vegam pogaanda keto, sabash khubsurat hai, take a snap please... are some reverberating dialogues. After 20 minutes of proving our stamina, we reached the base of the falls only to realize it is worth taking extra pains. On the day of our visit Gaganchukki looked more ferocious than it used to be.
At a distance is a wider Bharachukki on the eastern side. Interestingly the spot finds mention under the hundred best water spots in the world. Down the path to highway much of commercialization has happened as usual that is common to tourist spots and the sleepy hamlet is beating with liveliness. Before sunset we climbed up the ravine to reach Kollegala in Chamrajnagara district. It is the native of my mom who took us to visit her native old family friends.
Many of the elders whom we visited at agrahara street near Ram Mandiram found it difficult to identify one another as recognition was challenging with advancing age. An intro about my grandpa was the show opener followed by memories of Panthulu Master. My late grandpa Mr. C.S.Subbaramiah, a civil engineer and supervisor in Kollegal of the then Coimbatore District of Madras Presidency was incharge of government buildings’ maintenance. With this the trigger for a marathon chat had sounded. After exchanging memories and nostalgia about life, friends and the town of the 50s, elderly members returned to the present. It was the same soul searching effect that we faithfully experienced at Shivansamudram. What a striking similarity with nature and loving friends when we meet, though separated apart by years and geographical miles!
Under diffused sunlight, the weather was cloudy with cool breeze brushing our ears. Walking on the naturally formed fine sand dunes at Talakadu gave an unforgettable soothing massage to feet and toes. After the panchalinga darshan at Talakadu, our gluts demanded a heavy lunch before heading for Shivansamudram waterfalls (aka Bluff aka Simsha) in Mandya district. It is ideal to visit during the monsoon but we wouldn’t be able to go down to enjoy the beauty of valley when half of it would be submerged beneath the swirling waters. Much of water would be discharged from Kabini and Krishnarajasagar reservoirs.
The best season to view is from July to October. Though risky to climb the slippery rocks during strong winds, it is more challenging for it gives the bliss of oneness with nature. With much of wild grass (dharbai) grown in the vicinity, the spring would bring back to life its fauna and flora. Elderly and old may keep away from physical fitness test and enjoy the scene from the roadside gallery. A handy camera zoom is all that you need.
It appeared like a green canvass dotted on rocky hills with carefully painted giant falls. The milky water splashing from a height of 200 feet with roaring sound is a thing to be enjoyed and rejoiced by our souls in ecstasy. Here was Asia’s first hydro electric project that commenced operations to supply power to Kolar Gold fields. Surprisingly the hilly area remains unpolluted from the vagaries of modernization. ‘The place remains as it is when I came here on school excursion in 1959 but not sure if that winch facility exists now’ said my mom. The twin falls, Bharachukki and Gaganchukki exhibited the roughness of the wild show and envying visual beauty as well for shutterbugs. Outside the dargah, Hazrath Mardane Gaib, the view of the falls is beautiful and breathtaking. My mom was busy surveying the developments.
Over a period of fifty years, many eateries at cliff have sprouted to sell churmuri, madur vada and bisi chai. A chance to hear all languages every few minutes of trekking down and climbing up gave a feel of the national integration at one place. Erivarradhu kashtama irukku, neelu entha andham kaadhu, mole thazha vegam pogaanda keto, sabash khubsurat hai, take a snap please... are some reverberating dialogues. After 20 minutes of proving our stamina, we reached the base of the falls only to realize it is worth taking extra pains. On the day of our visit Gaganchukki looked more ferocious than it used to be.The torrent was thunderously loud when a big bamboo coracle took tourists near the fall. On the other side, a group of family members stood as anxious watchdogs shouting at playful bathing youngsters. Hanging near the water, a canopy of tree was sufficient for shop keepers to pitch tent for ‘hot n spicy’. Fresh catch of big marinated fish that laid on hot steaming tava engulfed the zone with smell of fire smoke and aroma.
At a distance is a wider Bharachukki on the eastern side. Interestingly the spot finds mention under the hundred best water spots in the world. Down the path to highway much of commercialization has happened as usual that is common to tourist spots and the sleepy hamlet is beating with liveliness. Before sunset we climbed up the ravine to reach Kollegala in Chamrajnagara district. It is the native of my mom who took us to visit her native old family friends. She revisited her high school that stood against a backdrop of hillock and narrated about landmarks enroute. With vivid memory she said the Girls Board High school has not changed in anyway and recalled how spectacular it was to watch forest fire in summer on Male Madeshwara Hills some 15 km away. Till recently the forest-hill area was under the hold of sandalwood smuggler, Veerappan.
By evening, we drove on the main road to reach River Cauvery as short-cut through thorny fields proved unfit and risky. The river flowing here is clear and tidy when compared to its turbidity in Tamilnadu due to over pollution in course of flow.
Many of the elders whom we visited at agrahara street near Ram Mandiram found it difficult to identify one another as recognition was challenging with advancing age. An intro about my grandpa was the show opener followed by memories of Panthulu Master. My late grandpa Mr. C.S.Subbaramiah, a civil engineer and supervisor in Kollegal of the then Coimbatore District of Madras Presidency was incharge of government buildings’ maintenance. With this the trigger for a marathon chat had sounded. After exchanging memories and nostalgia about life, friends and the town of the 50s, elderly members returned to the present. It was the same soul searching effect that we faithfully experienced at Shivansamudram. What a striking similarity with nature and loving friends when we meet, though separated apart by years and geographical miles!
Like the space-time theory of relativity their conversation happily travelled a distance of five decades in two hours. Signing off with sweet memories we returned to Mysore for dinner and night stay.
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Photos and text: S.Chandrasekar
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